Issues in Coloring African-Black Hair

African hair typically is coarse in texture when compared to other types. Coarse hair has a larger diameter and more cuticle layers than fine, straight hair. Sometimes the layers themselves in coarse hair can even be thicker than fine, straight hair. This constant layering and thickness in comparison to fine hair makes our hair more resistant to hair color and decolorization products.

As a result in order to get the shade desired and depending on the product, you may often have to leave the color on for a longer period of time (risking over-processing), heat processing may be required (to speed up processing) or you may have to undergo a series of lightenings.

The problem with repeated, over and heat processing is that you are inflicting additional damage to your hair.  But how much damage often depends on the hair color you've chosen.  Going for an extreme color change (3 shades lighter or darker than your natural color) can be very traumatic to the hair.  Where the color may initially seem successful, extreme color changes often result in dry, brittle hair.

Also keep in mind that the chemical process that occurs when you color your hair gives off heat.  So permanent colors that require heat processing or using heat processing while you color may speed up the process but it also can increase the amount of damage to the hair shaft...weakening it and leaving it more susceptible to breakage.

Here's when you whine and say, "But naani I've seen plenty of people whose hair is bombshell blonde."

True, many people have colored their successfully (me being one of them) and appear to have little trouble. My point is, permanent color can be very damaging due to the chemical process caused by the mixing of the color, peroxide and heat.  The logic is similar to that of hair relaxers or perms.  Both damage your hair as do permanent hair colors but how much damage is dependent upon how you or your stylist utilizes the chemicals.

The key to a successfully, minimally damaged chemical treatment is to first follow the manufacturer's instructions.  With everything from relaxers to hair colors, leaving the product on your hair longer than suggested is NOT recommended unless you know what you're doing.  Permanent color over-processing often leads to reddish, brassy tones in addition to weak, brittle hair.

Going to a licensed professional could eliminate much of the guess work and minimize damage.  Where this route is far more expensive than at-home colors, you're far more likely to get the color right on the first go.

Making sure hair is healthy and moisturized pre-color and making sure hair is moisturized and deep conditioned post-color, will also help to keep your hair as healthy looking as possible.

You can also minimize damage by using natural colors such as henna, semi-permanent or demi-permanent dyes, or other coloring products that use less caustic chemicals.  Unfortunately, such products rarely give you the color you desire or the results are temporary at best.  So you have to weigh what's best for you and your hair.

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