Not sure which naani's naturals product is for your hair type?  This section will help you make decisions regarding your online hair and skin care purchases. Select a topic below

 

Dreadlocks

Natural Black Hair

Relaxed

Naturally Straight

Fragrance Free

 

Dreadlocks Buying Guide

Locks do not have to be difficult to care for but many people have problems when it comes to how to properly shampoo and condition them.  Build-up and residue are common but most don't realize that this is due to an improper combination of products.

 

Are you the type to use heavy oils (such as olive) or grease your scalp in-between maintenance?  Do you go 2 or more weeks without shampooing your hair?  Believe it or not, the things that we do to keep our dreadlocks healthy are often the things which damage them and create drama during the cleansing process.

 

Remember, oil and water don't mix.  The objective of shampoos is to latch onto dirt and oils so that they can be easily rinsed away.  The problem with locks is that the oils/butters we use don't just sit on the surface.  We twist them inside the dreadlocks which means we have to cleanse our hair more fervently than individuals with loose hair styles, otherwise, we'll suffer build-up.

 

Clarifying shampoos and herbal vinegar treatments are mandatory if you use heavy oils such as olive or grease your scalp frequently in-between maintenance.  They are also good to use if you're starting a new product line as Brand A may effect Brand B's performance.  Getting rid of all traces of Brand A may help you better determine if Brand B is right for you.

 

In addition to clarifying agents, astringents can be used in-between maintenance because they tend to "reactivate" oils that are already in your hair and thus reduce the need for further additions.  Because astringents are alcohol based, they also tend to work as temporary cleansing agents and therefore refresh hair and scalp.

 

Dreadlocks Maintenance: Heavy Product Users

You're a heavy product user if your locks appear hazy or you find goo in various dreadlocks after a vigorous shampoo. 

 

More often than not, you'll find the goo in the portion of the lock that's closest to the scalp.  Stop and ask yourself, what you have put on your hair the days/weeks after your original shampoo?

 

If you grease your scalp frequently, coat your hair with heavy oils or do any combination/variation thereof, your repeated application of oils is exactly what's causing your dreadlocks to look dull and lifeless.

 

Remember, it's not the shampoo's fault.  Dreadlocks are basically matted hair so unlike individuals with loose hair styles, you shouldn't be liberally applying product upon product to your hair as if it has no consequences.  Dreadlocks have memory so although you may not see the oils/butters, they're there.  The key in dreadlocks care is learning how to bring the oils from the inside out BEFORE applying another dose of product.

 

Dreadlocks Maintenance - When & How Often to Shampoo

The truth is, some misguided folk believe that the only way to dreadlock your hair is to refrain from shampooing it. The most common argument for filth regimines is that not-shampooing causes hair to lock quicker.

 

Today, MOST realize that this is not true and the filth stigma associated with locks is the result of a campaign in recent years to degrade people who've chosen to wear them.  Think about it, it wasn't until the 1930's that locks garnered their popular name.  Prior to Jamaica in the 1930's, locks represented one of the world's oldest and most prolific hair styles with everyone from religious leaders and monks wearing them, to Ancient Egyptians and Celts.

 

When and how often to shampoo largely depends on your hair texture and the method used to begin your dreadlocks. For example with braids and two-strand twists dreadlocking methods, the mere structure of these starter locks enables the wearer to shampoo more frequently and as often as needed from Day 1.  

 

In contrast, comb-coils, palm-rolls and finger twists which unravel more easily in the presence of water require time to "set" and develop before you initiate your first shampoo.  Thus, if you have two-strands or braids that you will transition into dreadlocks, shampoo at will.  If not, follow the advice below.

 

On average, most locticians recommend not shampooing your hair during the first 3-4 weeks because it causes twists to unravel; however, some dreadlocks wearers have found that more frequent washing actually caused their hair to dreadlock sooner because it strips excess oils from their hair which they believe retard the locking process.  The latter group are often those who have choosen the Freeform or Organic method of growing dreadlocks (Marley Locks).

 

After the 3-4 week period, most new dreadlocks wearers should transition to every 2-3 weeks of shampooing.  Once an individual reaches the Teenage Stage of dreadlocks, they generally can shampoo as often as they like with most shampooing every 7-14 days

 

Dreadlocks Maintenance: Unclean Hair is Unsanitary

Individuals that go weeks, even months without shampooing have so many stories of insecurity and overall funkiness that you'd be wise to reconsider the "not-washing" regimine. While they THOUGHT that not washing was the way to go and that EVERYONE who dreadlocks doesn't wash their hair, they are sadly mistaken.

 

If you're an active person or are a bit apprehensive about allowing your head to go weeks...months without a drop of shampoo, you should start you dreadlocks with a method that will enable you to wash your hair a little more than the average.  Again, two-strand twists and braids are great for individuals on the go.  You can shampoo these types of starter locks from the very beginning of your journey without much consequence

 

What bothers me and most seasoned lock wearers about filfth regimines is that they are often followed because "they" said it was the way to go.  Ask most people who don't shampoo their locks who told them to do so and they're rarely able to pinpoint a source.  When they do, the advice often came at the hands of an unscrupulous loctician or friend.

 

In the end, I honestly don't care what your loctician or others have recommended, after about 4 weeks, it's time to put some water and shampoo on those puppies. If you can go longer, more power to ya but why?  Not only are you making your journey anything but positive, you're adding credence to the term "dreadful" locks.

 

I've said it time and time again, not shampooing doesn't make your hair lock any faster...it just makes them stink and in turn, makes you nasty in the presence of others.

 

Dreadlocks Maintenance: The "But My Locks Don't Stink" Excuse
Most people who smell poorly are unaware of the penance they're imposing on others.  Going months at time doesn't convey your devotion to growing dreadlocks.  All it does is confirm your ignorance of the hair style and your willingness to prescribe to falsehoods and negative stereotypes associated with the style.

 

Friends and family may not tell you how funky your hair is.  Many times, they're being nice and when asked, most will lie as no one wants to be the bearer of such news.  In other cases, those close to you may have their own misconceptions of dreadlocks and may also think that in order to grow them, your hair has to be as filthy as possible.

 

So you may not be able to smell your hair but if it's been months since your last shampoo, they do indeed stink and are filthy.  If you've used product during this period, not only do they smell, but you're creating a situation where when you finally do shampoo, you may be unable to fully and completely remove the accumulated product from your hair.  In the end, your locks when wet will have an ingrained, foul stench that you may never be able to get rid of.

 

Dreadlocks may not smell overtly when dry but the litmus test is how they smell in the presence of water.  Once you add water, those months of neglect will radiate from your locks as if they're saying, "THANK GOD!...HOW LONG WERE YOU GOING TO KEEP ME HERE?!" 

 

Think about it, even when hair is loose, we pick up smells and lint from our environment.  Over several months you're bound to have dandruff and dead skin that have flaked off your scalp.  All this gunk and debris not only make for damaged, funky locks, but they pose hygenic concerns as b acteria, yeast and fungus can accumulate in your locks.

 

So please, please, don't believe the hype.  You can shampoo as needed.  Give it a try!  It won't be the end of the world and your locks will be happier for it.

 

Dreadlocks Maintenance - The Ups & Downs of Shampooing
The only harm washing too soon does is cause unraveling and frizziness.  As far as the frizziness goes, this comes with the territory.  Washing early on may cause your new dreadlocks to be frizzier than someone who never washes their hair, but you'll be happier for  it. 

 

The main argument against washing in the early stages is that shampooing too early extends the amount of time it will take for your hair to form true dreadlocks.  Now when you consider you won't reach maturity for about 8-16 months regardless of how often you shampoo...what's the hurry?

 

Again in my mind, the "washing too soon" argument is non-sense cause locking isn't a science. Most do not wake up at the end of your first year with perfectly formed, cylindrical locks. Dreadlocking doesn't work that way. There are a number of factors besides shampoing that cause dreadlocking time to vary (method used, lifestyle, hair type, etc.) 

 

So in reality, when or how often you shampoo isn't the only reason why forming dreadlocks takes time. You can't determine when your hair is going to dreadlock and reach full maturity (unless you've had them before), so there's no reason why you should be walking around with a funky head.

 

Now this doesn't mean that you should shampoo daily, but it should put an end to the misconception that dreadlocked individuals should NEVER EVER shampoo. Hopefully you're going to be dreadlocking for years to come. So make your journey a pleasant one and do what you think is best for your hair rather than conforming to advice of others...loctician, "friends," or otherwise.

 

Finally, there's only one thing to remember when it comes to deciding whether or not to shampoo; "If it stinks, use antiseptic.  If it's hella funky, wash it (gently.)"

 

Dreadlocks Products: The Beeswax Conundrum

There's so much controversy surrounding the use of beeswax that it's easier for most people to advise against it, but just because an ingredient is misunderstood and misused doesn't mean it should be disregarded.  You will soon discover that it's not the beeswax itself that causes problems, concentration is the key

 

Regardless of what locking product you choose, make sure that the texture or degree of hardness/rigidity in your products that contain beeswax is not due solely to the beeswax.  For example, Cocoa Butter is very hard when cooled but it also has a pretty low melting point. Therefore, if a product contains more or just as much cocoa butter as beeswax then chances are, much of the stiffness could actually be the cocoa butter, not the wax.

 

Either way, if a beeswax product is hard as a brick while in the jar, if it can not be scooped out easily, if it doesn't have easy pliability when massage between your fingers, you probably shouldn't use it. 

 

THE TRUTH ABOUT BEESWAX
Beeswax has traditionnally been used to help keep twists intact and smooth flyaways during the initial locking stages. The problem with tradtional beesweax products is that they are manufactured to be so thick and gooey or ultra-hard that they were very difficult to shampoo out of your hair. Very hot water is often needed to fully remove the product and even then, there may still be some residue which overtime leads to build-up.

 

Try purchasing a jar of over-the-counter (OTC) beeswax-petroleum product and examining its consistency. Unlike the pomades we're used to, most OTC beeswax products are therefore thick and repel water like a raincoat.  Because these products usually contain additives like petrolatum/petroleum which clogs pores and gets trapped in dreadlocks, they're all the more difficult to wash out (it'd be like pouring a melted candle and vaseline onto your hair). So imagine having it in your hair after regular applications. How can you truly expect to remove it all in just one setting...especially when you have dreadlocks?

 

Using petroleum and mineral oil based products repeatedly can cause a build-up of the material in your dreadlocks that may be impossible to remove. In addition, as your locks mature, OTC beeswax or petroleum based products can give your hair a dull, lifeless appearance and can also cause your dreadlocks to become quite heavy.

 

The rule of thumb is that if it feels sticky and heavy, leave it on the shelf.  If you do a little label reading, It's really hard to find holding agents which don't contain some form of petroleum, mineral oil, etc. so it may take time to zero in on a product of choice.

 

Now some people throw a fit at the sight of beeswax on an ingredient list which I think is a bit over the top.  Beeswax has its benefits but as with all things in life, many of us prescribe by the "more is more" philosophy and that just doesn't work with dreadlocks. 

 

 Beeswax in and of itself isn't wholey evil.  It's what the product manufacturer has chosen to add to it, how much the manufacturer has used in the formulation AND how much product (no matter what the ingredients) you use during maintenance which determines its effectiveness.

 

 With that said, there are beeswax products that work well with dreadlocks.  These products rinse clean and will leave no build-up on your hair.  They also offer better hold that you will get with traditional gels, pomades or hair dressings.  Such products take advantage of the holding power beeswax offers without over doing it.

 

Here at naani we have formulated a wide variety of products for use on dreadlocks, one of them being naani's naturals LOCK'D DOWN Dreadlocks Butter. Our product contains the following Ingredients: Herb Infused Olive Oil, Jojoba, Cocoa Butter, Beeswax, Coconut Oil, Illipe Butter, Sweet Almond Oil, Essential Oil and/or Fragrance Oil Blend.

 

Note, it contains beeswax but I'm sure you've been paying attention.  LOCK'D DOWN leaves no residue because we use a proper concentration of beeswax in our formulation.  Many of our clients and  naaniMODELS have used the product succesfully for years because it washes away easily and leaves no build-up or harmful residues.  LOCK'D DOWN remains our best selling product for a reason. The texture of LOCK'D DOWN, whether you're purchasing the Creamy or Thick variety, is smooth.  It literally glides onto the hair and is not gooey like traditional dreadlocking products or hard as a brick like some that you'll find on the net.  You're sure to fall in love with it and once you try it, you'll never say "Never" to beeswax again because when a product is formulated right, that's just what it is...right.

   

Natural Black Hair Buying Guide

Many of our customers with relaxed hair styles presume that naani's naturals products are only for dreadlocks.  This couldn't be further from the truth.  Natural and Organic hair and skin care products can benefit anyone and any hair type or texture.  Choosing our products over chemical-based ones comes with an understanding of what chemicals typically do to relaxed or chemically treated hair.  Once you understand this, choosing natural products is a no-brainer.

 

How Relaxers Work

Have you ever wondered why your hair is unable to return to its natural state after a relaxer?  Does it bother you that in order to be natural that you can't just simply stop relaxing your hair?  Do you find that your hair goes through short/long phases and that one month, it seems healthy and happy and a few months later you have split-ends, breakage and dryness?

 

Facts are, relaxers are synonymous with Breakage - Brittleness - Damage - Discoloration - Dryness - Thinning.  You may not think you're suffering from the above but again, compare your relaxed hair to your in its natural state.  And if you can't remember your natural hair, then trust me...all of the above apply.

 

In addition to the damage the relaxers cause in and of themselves, in order to maintain this style additional heat is a necessity.  Excessive heat from styling aids and blow-dryers equals even further damage.  When done on a regular/daily basis, you end up with lyed and fried hair.

Now I know you didn't come here to get beat up on but understanding how relaxers work is critical to learning how to work with, rather than against them. 

 

So this begs the question, if relaxers cause so much damage and weakness, how do you give your relaxed hair strength?  Well in order to answer this question, you need to understand what holds your hair together. 

 

Hair & Bonding
Remember chemistry?  Remember all that talk about bonding and breaking bonds?  Do you recall that discussion on acids and bases?  Do you remember using those test strips and watching them turn color when added to vinegar, baking soda, alcohol?  No?  Well, let's jog your memory.

 

Our hair is composed of bonds. The primary bonds of interest are hydrogen and polypeptides.  Hydrogen breaks down in the presence of water and then reforms in its absence.  This is what accounts for our hairs' flexibility.  This is why our hair stretches in humid environments or when wet and is not as flexible when dry.  You can test this theory out by simply pulling on a loose strand of hair that's in your brush or comb.  If your hair is relatively healthy, it will stretch like a rubber band when gently pulled.

 

These hydrogen bonds are found in all types of hair...even damaged, dry, brittle hair.  Thing is, if your hair is damaged, you will find that it's not as flexible as it should be and when tugging on a strand, it won't give/stretch as much as healthy hair.  Flexibility is critical because your hair will need to give in the presence of constant combing, brushing and pulling, otherwise it'll break.  Because chemicals = damage, relaxed hair will always be "damaged" to a degree and therefore have less flexibility.

 

The other major bonds found in hair are polypeptides.  These are found in keratin which comprises roughly 88% of our hair and accounts for its strength.  These bonds are more difficult to break and require the addition of a strong base (remember acids and bases from chemistry?) to be destroyed. 

 

What is a strong base?  A relaxer.  Relaxers are similar in PH to drain cleaner.  On the acid-base scale, they register a whooping 13+.  Wondering what other products have similar PHs?   "Draino®!!!!!"  Think about that.  The same stuff that can corrode your pipes and eats away the gunk that accumulates therein is similar to the chemicals that you put on your scalp...your delicate scalp which encloses the most important organ in your body...your brain.

 

With this degree of toxicity, when you relax your hair, you destroy the polypeptide bonds.  Thing is, once these bonds are destroyed, unlike hydrogen, they can never be repaired...they are forever altered.  This is why in order to return your hair to its natural state, you gotta grow your hair out and cut off the relaxed ends.

 

Now the important thing to take note of is that polypeptides = strength.  Once they're gone, what's holding your hair together?  Nothing really.  This is why with relaxed hair, protection is critical.  Protection comes in the form of making sure not to over-process or overlap product during touch-ups, using quality products in-between shampoos and reducing the amount of heat and styling. 

 

So, if you're wondering why natural folk say that relaxed hair isn't healthy...now ya know.  But instead of throwing your hands up in defeat, realize that now you understand the cause of most damage you might experience and the next question is, how to prevent or remedy it.

   

The Truth Regarding Black Consumers

Many Black women (and men) hate to hear it but the truth is, we far too often fall into the trap of buying hair and skin care products because the name sounds cool, we fall for buzz words like "placenta" or "horse," it smells good, everybody else is using it, and/or we're not always using common sense.
 

First, just because it sounds new and innovative doesn't mean it's new and innovative.  There's no need to rush out and buy a boat-load of new products if 1, you don't know why they're "better," and 2, you haven't truly identified your hairs' needs.

 

Second, read labels.  The first 5-7 ingredients are what make the product.  Anything thereafter is probably used in such minute traces that it may not be adding any real benefit.

 

Finally, get more bang for your buck.  Don't buy just because it costs more.  Sometimes you're paying for a name.  Don't buy because it costs less.  Sometimes you're paying for ingredients (the better quality the ingredients, the higher the cost).

 
Our Hair, Even Relaxed Hair, is Unique

Many of us are aware that naturally straight hair accumulates natural oils and essential fatty acids (sebum) in about 2-3 days which is why individuals with this hair type and texture are able to/should wash their hair more frequently.  Sebum protects and waterproofs hair and skin, and keeps them from becoming dry, brittle, and cracked.  Thus good sebum accumulation and distribution leads to healthier, longer, stronger hair.

 

The problem with relaxers is that they rob hair of sebum.  I mean think about, just as drain cleaner removes every bit of oil and gunk from your bathroom pipes, relaxers will strip your hair of oils as well.  As a result, Black folks had to develop ways to mimic natural sebum..."grease."

 

The (Un)Natural Behavior of Greasing Our Scalps

As most women with relaxed hair know, it's not until about a week or so after shampooing that your hair has more body and could hold a curl.  Reason being, we've added grease/oil within that first week which helped return our hair to a state of normalcy (in effect building up artificial sebum).
 

The problem with replacing sebum via greases is that there's nothing like the real thing.  Greases can suffocate hair and scalp.  It'd be better if we could retain an optimum sebum level and distribution, and then in turn use grease as a back up.  So the next question is, what inhibits sebum accumulation?

 
Answer:  Your OTC shampoo.  

 

Most products on the market are designed for use on naturally straight hair.  Whether it be cosmetics that we put on our face, body or hair, manufacturers have traditionally targeted like (White) consumers.  Thus, most shampoos are designed to strip hair of vital sebum (making it less oily) because naturally straight hair accumulates it so rapidly.  The end result of shampooing with such products is squeaky clean hair and if you've understood up until this point, that's a bad thing.

 

Stop Stripping Your Hair!

OTC shampoos strip every bit of oil (good and bad) as if you had naturally straight hair and could naturally replace it in a matter of days.  Luckily, large manufacturing companies have realized the need for personal care products targeted to Black consumers and have expanded their product offerings.   The problem is that many of these "new" products contain the exact same formulation as the original with slight (and often unnecessary) modifications. 

 

So what do these new products offer?  Mainly a new scent and buzz-word ingredients.  Just compare labels of the company's original brand versus the same brand marketed to relaxed or natural Black hair consumers.  Notice any differences? 

 

I guarantee you that once you omit the buzz-words and get down to the base formulation, both products will contain; Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and/or Sodium Laureth Sulfate.  These surfactants are what make the product a detergent/"Shampoo" and are the primary ingredients that will help you identify if the product is harsh or mild (meaning how much it strips oils/sebum). 

 

When you see the "Lauryls," return the product to the shelf...it's too harsh for your hair (and anyone else's for that matter).  Laureth's are milder but you'll spend a good while trying to find an OTC one that contains Laureth's only.

 

So in essence, these new products for natural and relaxed hair are marketing gimics designed to increase the company's bottom line versus providing a truly new, unique product that's been specifically designed for you.  The end result is defenseless hair that has been stripped of sebum and continually requires the use of grease and oils to replace what the shampoo has taken away.
   
Relaxed or Chemically Treated Hair & Dryness:  Shampoo Solution
Read labels.  Stay away from harsh surfactants (Lauryl Sulfates) as they strip your hair of its main protectant (sebum).  Please note, this advice applies to you whether you're naturally straight, naturally curly, naturally coily, relaxed or locked.  A quality shampoo will cleanse your hair, not strip it.  So just as you wouldn't wash your body with dish detergent (it'd dry out your skin), avoid products that dry out your hair and scalp.
 
Better Solution:  Try No-Sulfate and/or Castile shampoos.  Castile Shampoos are plant-based and ideal for consumers looking for a purely natural (and in naani's naturals case), purely USDA Certified Organic alternative.  They soften hair and they're potent so one 9oz bottle can last months.

 

No-Sulfate shampoos won't lather like traditional shampoos (they don't create as much foam on the first shampoo) but dont let that bother you.  Your dishwasher and laundry detergents don't foam at all but that doesn't make them less effective than dishwashing liquid right?  Foam is an unnecessary additive that manufacturers like to put in certain products to make you think it''s doing something extra special.

 

No Sulfate shampoos will therefore cleanse your hair but won't strip it.  Like Castiles, they truly moisturize and once you start using them, your hair and scalp will most likely naturally remedy itself (as long as your dryness/dandruff aren't extreme and require medical attention).  

 

Initially, dilute your No-Sulfate and Castile shampoos 1:1 with water.  Thoroughly saturate your hair with water before applying the product.  This will keep you from over-using the products while you get used to them.  In the end, you should be using the same amount of No-Sulfate as you would an OTC shampoo.
 
Strive for Normalcy:  Dryness, dandruff and itchies of any kind aren't normal.  I don't care if your hair has been dry all your life; it just means you've using the wrong products or doing something wrong for X+ years.  Think about it; there's a reason why hair is classified as Oily, Normal OR Dry, so if you hairs' not "Normal," there's room for change.

 
Relaxed or Chemically Treated Hair & Dryness: Grease & Oil Solution
Stay away from anything that contains mineral oils/petrolatum.  They don't easily absorb into the skin and scalp.  They give you a false sense of sheen, often irritate your scalp and promote dandruff.  A better solution is purely natural butter/oil formulations.  
 
My best analogy for the use of Natural Butters vs. OTC Greases is this:  Don't you hate ashy skin?  When you apply mineral oils (most baby oils) or water-based lotions, chances are, you'll either be greasy/shiny looking and/or ashen again within an hour.  So what's the point in using them other than they smell good?

 

A better alternative would be to use a quality